Hydrowall is a structural building system that will contain water inside the wall.

Hydrowall is a standalone building frame system. It can be used instead of, or alongside traditional construction methods like brickwork, or stud frame.

Hydrowall is a modular system and is available in a range of heights, lengths, and widths.

Hydrowall is quick and easy to assemble. The modular components simply connect together to create wall sections

Hydrowall can be covered with whatever cladding system you choose so that it matches in with the rest of your home

Yes. Hydrowall is designed to support roof loads. The standard system can support roof loads in most domestic situations.

Each design must be checked and certified by engineers for structural use. Superwall Systems can arrange for engineering drawings to be completed for your design. Sample engineering drawings are available upon request

Yes. Service conduits can easily be incorporated in the Hydrowall System. It is best to install services prior to cladding. Services can also be surface mounted providing the is secured to the wall only in the designated safe places.

Please refer to the spacing diagram in the Hydrowall Installtion manual for location of the frame components

Hydrowall is a modular system. Modules are available in a range of heights, lengths and widths as follows:

Heights: 1800mm, 2100mm, 2400mm, 2700mm and 3000mm

Lengths: 685 (600) mm and 1285 (1200)mm

Widths: 300mm, more to come

Custom sizes may be available on request

Yes. Modules are connected together with a flexible pipe. The pipe can be as long as you want. Windows are easy because usually the pipe can run in the cavity under the window. Doors require that the pipe goes under the door somehow. Either down through the slab or under the door frame.

Please refer to the technical drawings for door and window details.

Not at the moment sorry. It's something we are working on

Yes. Hydrowall is similar to stud frame construction. There are parts of the frame that are safe to drill into without damaging the liner, but parts that are not safe. Use the spacing diagram in the installation manual to check where the frame, or use a studfinder.

If the fixing misses the frame then there is a risk that it will pentrate the liner and cause a leak. It is best not to drill into the wall unless you are SURE there is frame behind it. The vertical posts are the safest place to drill.

There are also a number of hanging products like 3M adhesive hooks, or picture rails located near the cornice that can be used.

The Liner is made from a heavy duty reinforced material, similar to that used for inflatable dinghies. It can withstand a lot of pressure and abrasion and each liner is pressure tested when it is made so it is very unlikely that it will leak from any fault or wear and tear.

The Hydrowall system also incorporates a flexible ground mat that acts like a flashing to drain any water to the outside.

There are other reasons that the tank may leak as follows:

1. Punctures

Punctures are likely to occur if someone drills, screws or nails into the wall at an unsafe position. The safe positions are the vertical posts or high up the wall above the water line. The other cause of punctures is if someone has drill or screwed into the metal frame and created metal shards. These can find there way under the liner and may puncture the liner. It may not happen immediately but as the tank moves through filling and emptying, the metal shard could work its way under and into the liner.

Fixing punctures

Like an inflatable boat, punctures can be repaired if required. This will usually involve removing the cladding around the leak and draining the liner to below the leak level. You can use an inspection camera to help locate the leak (most plumbers will have one). If it is not possible to repair the leak then the leaking unit can be bypassed altogether but connecting the adjacent Hydrowall modules together. If the leak is high then another option is to only fill the Hydrowall to just below the leak level. This can be done by adding an upstand pipe at the outlet to create an overflow at the desired level. The upstand pipe needs to be just below the leak level. Then when the tank fills it will overflow before it reaches the leak level

2. Plumbing leaks

Leaks can occur of the outlets are not connected properly. Always use high quality hose clamps and ensure they are tightened.

3. Overflow leaks

If the inlet cap is not tightened then water may overflow. Always tighten the inlet caps on any that are not being used.

Prevention is better than cure, so we recommend using a Superhead or some other filter to prevent debris and pollution getting inside the tanks (liners).

If you already have a problem with debris in the tank then it may be difficult to fix due to the limited access. Most debris is located closest to the inlet(s). If you have a severe silt problem then you can try to vacuum it up by inserting a suction hose into the inlet.

If you need to treat the water for smells or discolouration then you can try a treatment solution. Most caravan or boat shops will sell chemicals used to treat storage tanks. If that fails then you may need to drain the tanks.

Hydrowall is available in 2 types: Standard and potable.

The Standard Grade is made from reinforced PVC which is not recommended for drinking (potable) water. This type is our economical option and is suitable for applications where drinking water is not required.

The Potable Grade liner is made from TPU and is suitable for potable water. The material has been certified and is Watermark approved.

NOTE: It is important to routinely check the quality of the water stored in the tank. Other factors like pollution and debris, mosquitoes and sunlight can affect the water and make it unfit for consumption, regardless of the liner used. We recommend the use of a UV steriliser or other filter on the outlet where water will be consumed.

Any colour!

The Hydrowall System consists of a frame and flexible liner to hold the water. It can then be covered in whatever cladding you choose. Some common cladding materials are:

Colorbond/ Metal Cladding- A range of colours and profiles are available

Fibre Cement sheet (or similar)- Can be painted as required, or tiled

Weatherboard- Timber, or composite boards can be used.

Please visit the photo gallery for some examples and check the technical drawings for installation instructions.

Yes- almost anything is possible but keep in mind the standard connection system is for 90° connections. Other angles will usually require customisation of the joining parts and/ or spacing members to create the non- standard connection.

Hydrowall has a lifespan of 25+ years.

Hydrowall has a 2 year product warranty to be free from faults and defects.

Each liner is individually tested checked during manufacturing and quality control prior to shipping. If for some reason the liner appears to be damaged then please contact us to arrange a replacement.

Yes- If it is insulated.

Water has a a high thermal mass so it will retain the thermal energy that it gains from the internal or external environment. If you are in a freezing climate it could be used as an internal wall and insulated from the outside air temp. Then it would heat up from any internal heating and retain and maintain the temperature inside the room. The water itself can be heated (from solar or whatever) and become a heat source. It is the same theory in hot climates too. The recommended construction is to insulate the wall on the outside and use the water (thermal mass) to help regulate the internal temp. If however it was a standalone wall like in a shed or fence then it is likely to freeze.